British era
During British rule the town contained two bazaars, the Hindu and Muslim population living in separate quarters. The town stands on a level plain, with a slight fall to the river, but is badly drained. It is surrounded by a thin mud wall, with nine gates, enclosing an area of about 500 acres. The cantonment, which lies south-east of the town, has an area of 44 square miles, excluding the portion known as Fort Akalgarh on the north-west side. The civil lines are to the south.
The Derajat Brigade had its winter head-quarters at Dera Ismail Khan, and the garrison consisted of a mountain battery, a regiment of Native cavalry, and three regiments of Native infantry. Detachments from these regiments helped to garrison the outposts of Drazinda, Jandola, and Jatta. The municipality was constituted in 1867. The income during the ten years ending 1902-3 averaged Rs. 55,000, and the expenditure Rs. 53,000. The income and expenditure in 1903-4 were Rs. 55,500 and Rs. 55,800 respectively. The chief source of income was octroi (Rs. 48,000) ; and the chief items of expenditure were conservancy (Rs. 8,785), education (Rs. 7,246), hospitals and dispensaries (Rs. 6,302), public safety (Rs. 7,733), public works (Rs. 2,143), and administration (Rs. 5,546). The receipts and expenditure of cantonment funds during the ten years ending 1902-3 averaged RS. 2,700 and Rs. 2,800 respectively.
The local trade of Dera Ismail Khan was of second-rate importance, but some foreign traffic with Khorasan passed through it. Powinda caravans of Afghan merchants traversed the town twice a year on their road to and from India; and, with the increasing security of the Gomal route, these caravans were yearly swelling in numbers. The chief imports were English and native piece-goods, hides, salt, and fancy wares; and the exports, grain, wood, and ghi. The local manufactures are lungis and lacquered woodwork. The town possesses a civil hospital; its chief educational institutions are two aided Anglo-vernacular high schools, one maintained by the Church Missionary Society and the other by the Bharatri Sabha, and an Anglo-vernacular middle school maintained by the municipality.
Notable residents during the British Era
The first civil surgeon of the civil hospital was Dr. Bhagwan Das Dhamija and Bharati Sabha was started by a prominent Dhamija family whose family held high positions of session judge and prominent lawyers. Hindu and Sikh families sought their guidance and help in business. The trade flourished after roads were built by Military Engineering Services in the 30's.British brought in an engineer Ram N. Mullick to supervise the construction from Bannu. Asa Nand Kapoor and Ram.N.Mullick were the first two engineers from Banaras Engineering College class of 1922-26.See April,2008 issue of the Chronicle Both of them played a major role in the building of roads, electricity and water for D I Khan and Bannu areas of NWFP.
Lala Thakur Das Taneja and his son Tola ram Man Mohan Lal Taneja were among the prominent sugar traders of that time, one of his son Col Bashi lal Taneja became one of the best doctors of India after partition and opened the first Medical college "Maulna Azad Medical College" in Delhi.
Dr P. L. Narula Ji, a famous doctor, lived in D I Khan before moving to India after 1947 Partition. Shri Kawalnayan Sachdeva Ji was a prominent trader who stayed in D I Khan before partition.
Most of Hindu population of D I Khan during the Pre-Partition era were followers of Lal Ji Maharaj and Sati Kewal Ram Ji Maharaj of Bohoriwala Thalla, which is now situated in Inderpuri, New Delhi.
Demography
According to the 1901 census the population of Dera Ismail Khan was 31,737, of whom 18,662 were Muslims, 11,486 Hindus, and 1,420 Sikhs. Of the total, 3,450 lived in the cantonment. After the partition of India, many of the city's Hindu residents settled in India, primarily in Model Town, Vijay Nagar and Derawal Nagar colony of Delhi.
In Derawal Nagar there is a common building for Derawals, called Sewa Samiti Bhavan. This building is primarily donoated by descendants of Sota family.
In 1999 it had a population of 31,737, down from its 1981 census tally of 64,358. The population is the mix of ethnic Balochi and Pashtun segments, with a significant minority of Urdu-speaking immigrants. Urdu, the national language is understood and spoken by the majority of residents, while Saraiki is the local colloquial language. Pashto is also spoken, primarily within the Pashtun community. Natives of Dera Ismail Khan are known as Derawals.
Communication
The city is connected to Bannu via the highway, which further connects it to the provincial capital of Peshawar via Kohat and Darra Adam Khel. Another road connects D.I. Khan to Mianwali through Chashma Barrage. The third major road connects it to Bhakkar in Punjab, situated on the eastern bank of Indus River. The bridge on the Indus River was constructed in early 1980s, before which the approach to Bhakkar was made through a boat bridge.
The city has telephone, telegraph, and internet facilities- although telegraph has recently been abandoned in line with the government policy of transitioning away from telegraph communications throughout the country.
Educational institutions
The city is home to many educational institutions, including:
- Gomal University
- Al-Khair University
Languages
Siraiki is the first language of people, followed by Pashtun.
Tourist areas
Although the city is relatively new, rebuilt following the 1823 flood, many of its original structures remain - the original wall is still visible around the old city. A popular tourist destination is a pre-Islamic fort called Bilot, 30 miles from the Dera Ismail Khan on Dera Ismail Khan- Chashma highway. These ruins are situated on a hill.
A sacred Sikh shrine is located in the Chota Bazaar of Dera Ismail Khan as Guru Nanak visited this place during his fourth itinerary. At the site where he stayed a dharamsala was built by his devotees. It is a large building, its main gate opens in the Chota Bazaar. Inside this door there is a double storey square building, where Prakash used to take place. There are residential rooms around this building for pilgrims. Inside the darbar there is a thara sahib (pious seat) where Guru Nanak Dev Ji once sat. Presently the Government Higher Secondary School No. 3 is housed in this building. This dharamsala was maintained by SGPC before 1947 and presently it is in the hands of the Waqf department.
Economic production in the district
One of the most famous products of this district is the "Dhakki date", which is exported to Middle East, United States, and Europe. This date or khajoor is grown in the nearby village of Dhakki 49 km away on Chashma Road. This district also produces wheat, sugar cane, rice, and a famous variety of mango called langra. The most desirable langras are grown in the village of Panyala. Nowadays D I Khan is increasingly exporting another type of dried date called chooara. The majority of chooara are produced in Dhakki, Mitrah Abad and Saidu Wali. Saidu Wali is the village of D I Khan situated in Tehsil Pahar Pur about 58 km from D I Khan near Dhakki and Pahar Pur. There are also coal mines in the village of Saidu Wali on the edge of CRBC Canal.
The bazars of the city all converge in one area, called Chowgalla (literally "intersection"). Major bazars include Topanwala bazaar, Bhatiya bazaar, Muslim bazaar, Commissioneri Bazaar Kalan bazaar and Bakhiri bazaar.
Like other cities and towns of the Saraiki-speaking belt, Dera Ismail Khan is also famous for a desert delicacy called sohan (halwa). Shops selling this sweet are primarily situated in Topawaala bazar.
Dera Ismail Khan is also famous for its lacquered woodwork, glass and ivory ware, mats, and sarongs. Newer industries within the city include sugar, soap, textile and oil milling. Radio Pakistan is also situated in D.I.Khan., telecasting Saraiki and Pashto programmes. CRBC Canal is the major canal which provide water for irrigation.
Transport
The nearest railway station is 20 km away at Darya Khan on the eastern and opposite bank of the Indus River.